So I come all the way to Scotland for a White Christmas, and the snow's in fricking Victoria?
I mean, what the frick?
We have frost on the ground, though, so it looks like snow. And I certainly cannot complain about the lovely presents I've been given, the hospitality we've been shown up here, and the massive amounts of food that keep being pushed in my direction!
Huzzah for Christmas. I'm off now to eat, play party games (I've complied my very own Christmas-themed quiz for the group) and watch the Christmas Doctor Who special on BBC One. Fantastic!
Dec 26, 2006
Dec 23, 2006
By the way, Merry Christmas
Have written loads below, but just in case I don't get near a computer again until the Big Day, I hope everyone who reads has a fabulously fattening and fun-filled festive Christmas.
I hope you don't get one of these:
Seriously, Little Drummer Rabbit was for sale in a shop in Toledo, Spain. Don't even ask me why.
Merry Christmas!
I hope you don't get one of these:
Seriously, Little Drummer Rabbit was for sale in a shop in Toledo, Spain. Don't even ask me why.
Merry Christmas!
Planes, Fog and Automobiles
When you live in Australia, every Christmas-time, regular as clockwork, there'll be a story on the news about freak festive weather in the U.K. The ultimate upshot is that heavy fog or snow or sleet or frost or some other goddamned winter-related meterological condition plays havoc with airports, flights, train travel, car journeys, you name it, and a bunch of pasty British people get angry about not being able to get home for Christmas. Watching these reports in Australia, you chuckle and think 'Glad I'm not over there this time of year!' (normally unaware of the irony that these reports are usually preceded by the latest devastating bushfire in Victoria or NSW).
Anyway, my point is that this year, I got to experience that story first-hand, as our flight from Rome to Liverpool on Thursday was cancelled due to heavy fog, and we had to get on an alternative flight to London Luton and rent a car to get up to Scouser country. We drove through genuine pea-soup fog most of the way up - I really did feel like I was in a bleak Emily Bronte novel or something. In hindsight we were lucky: hundreds of domestic and European flights from Heathrow, Stansted, Glasgow and other British airports were cancelled, with travellers forced to queue for hours - often outside, for goodness' sake - waiting for the fog to lift. Apparently it's only going to start getting back to normal on Saturday 23 December - hopefully leaving people enough time to get wherever they need to be for Christmas. At least we got through to the U.K., managed to rent a car at a "reasonable" price, and only got in eight hours later than we were supposed to. The cancellation also gave us the opportunity to meet Catherine, a lovely young Canadian student who was due to return to the Land of the Maple Leaf the next day, and was very worried about how she would get back to Lancaster, north of Manchester. She chipped in for the car hire and we drove her to Manchester Airport, where she caught a train. Hooray for friendships forged in challenging circumstances!
We spent just over a day in the company of our friend Mixmaster Mike, whom we acquired as part of the Nat 'n' Greg posse back in Greece. Big thanks to Mike and his family for putting us up so close to Christmas. Mike took us out to see downtown Liverpool, and we were quite impressed. Once reknowned as a dirty port city, full of unsavoury types, Liverpool is now a bustling metropolis with construction going on everywhere. It's also won the title of European Capital of Culture in 2008, so it's going great guns. And boy, they sure love the Beatles. Beatles, Beatles everywhere. Yes, we went to the Cavern Club, and took our photo with the statue of John Lennon in Mathew St. But that's really all the Beatles' stuff we did. Although we did drop our rental car off at the new Liverpool John Lennon Airport, which has the rather sweet motto of 'Above Us Only Sky'.
Today we picked up our pre-booked rental car and made our way up the M6 and M74 to Glasgow. Back in Scotland! My goodness. We head up to Inverness later today for five days of festive fun with family, then we're back down for a knees-up New Year before we start the big effort of packing in preparation for our return to Oz. I really, really, really hope to have some money left over so I can buy myself some nice clothes from the stores here. Greg just doesn't understand that, yes, while we have clothes in Brisbane, we just don't have the variety that they have here. Mind you, Greg's also looking to pick up another swanky coat from Zara, so it mightn't be too hard to convince him to go shopping after all...
Finally, in exciting pictorial developments:
Yeah, that's right. Who's street?
Bochenska Street, that's who. Damn.
This is an honest-to-goodness street located in the Kazimercz district of Krakow. It was a little scruffy, but then, I'm hardly the epitome of polished sophistication now, am I?
Anyway, my point is that this year, I got to experience that story first-hand, as our flight from Rome to Liverpool on Thursday was cancelled due to heavy fog, and we had to get on an alternative flight to London Luton and rent a car to get up to Scouser country. We drove through genuine pea-soup fog most of the way up - I really did feel like I was in a bleak Emily Bronte novel or something. In hindsight we were lucky: hundreds of domestic and European flights from Heathrow, Stansted, Glasgow and other British airports were cancelled, with travellers forced to queue for hours - often outside, for goodness' sake - waiting for the fog to lift. Apparently it's only going to start getting back to normal on Saturday 23 December - hopefully leaving people enough time to get wherever they need to be for Christmas. At least we got through to the U.K., managed to rent a car at a "reasonable" price, and only got in eight hours later than we were supposed to. The cancellation also gave us the opportunity to meet Catherine, a lovely young Canadian student who was due to return to the Land of the Maple Leaf the next day, and was very worried about how she would get back to Lancaster, north of Manchester. She chipped in for the car hire and we drove her to Manchester Airport, where she caught a train. Hooray for friendships forged in challenging circumstances!
We spent just over a day in the company of our friend Mixmaster Mike, whom we acquired as part of the Nat 'n' Greg posse back in Greece. Big thanks to Mike and his family for putting us up so close to Christmas. Mike took us out to see downtown Liverpool, and we were quite impressed. Once reknowned as a dirty port city, full of unsavoury types, Liverpool is now a bustling metropolis with construction going on everywhere. It's also won the title of European Capital of Culture in 2008, so it's going great guns. And boy, they sure love the Beatles. Beatles, Beatles everywhere. Yes, we went to the Cavern Club, and took our photo with the statue of John Lennon in Mathew St. But that's really all the Beatles' stuff we did. Although we did drop our rental car off at the new Liverpool John Lennon Airport, which has the rather sweet motto of 'Above Us Only Sky'.
Today we picked up our pre-booked rental car and made our way up the M6 and M74 to Glasgow. Back in Scotland! My goodness. We head up to Inverness later today for five days of festive fun with family, then we're back down for a knees-up New Year before we start the big effort of packing in preparation for our return to Oz. I really, really, really hope to have some money left over so I can buy myself some nice clothes from the stores here. Greg just doesn't understand that, yes, while we have clothes in Brisbane, we just don't have the variety that they have here. Mind you, Greg's also looking to pick up another swanky coat from Zara, so it mightn't be too hard to convince him to go shopping after all...
Finally, in exciting pictorial developments:
Yeah, that's right. Who's street?
Bochenska Street, that's who. Damn.
This is an honest-to-goodness street located in the Kazimercz district of Krakow. It was a little scruffy, but then, I'm hardly the epitome of polished sophistication now, am I?
Girl Clumsy and the Deathly Hallows
Some time ago, while travelling, I had a dream that I was invited to a secret media conference during which J.K. Rowling announced the name of the seventh and final Harry Potter book. Obviously, that's a fairly thrilling dream for both a journalist and a Harry Potter tragic.
According to my subconscious, the title was Harry Potter and the Mask of Time.
Now I thought, upon waking, that that was a bloody good title for a Harry Potter book, and that I must email J.K. herself with the suggestion. Of course, I forgot.
And it now appears that, sadly, my dreams are NOT prophetic - J.K. Rowling's announced the final book will be called Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows.
I still reckon mine's better. ;)
Ah, well. No time frame for the book's publication has been released, so I'll just go back to waiting for the OOTP movie, which looks pretty good, and has the wonderful Imelda Staunton as Dolores Umbridge, who has my vote for the most horribilest character ever to dis-grace the pages of a HP novel.
According to my subconscious, the title was Harry Potter and the Mask of Time.
Now I thought, upon waking, that that was a bloody good title for a Harry Potter book, and that I must email J.K. herself with the suggestion. Of course, I forgot.
And it now appears that, sadly, my dreams are NOT prophetic - J.K. Rowling's announced the final book will be called Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows.
I still reckon mine's better. ;)
Ah, well. No time frame for the book's publication has been released, so I'll just go back to waiting for the OOTP movie, which looks pretty good, and has the wonderful Imelda Staunton as Dolores Umbridge, who has my vote for the most horribilest character ever to dis-grace the pages of a HP novel.
Dec 20, 2006
How to see a reasonably fair bit of Rome in two days on a reasonably fair amount of cash
MONDAY.
Start by enjoying a sleep-in. Hell, you've been travelling for over four months now, why force yourself to be up and out of your hotel by 8am? Nothing's open before 9 or 10am anyway.
When you eventually head out, wander down past your local street stalls and pick up a fabulous purple handbag with all the pockets you like for 15 euros, and enjoy a piece of 2 euro pizza. Catch the Metro blue line to Colosseo, a great starting place for any walk around Old Rome. Bypass the strange men dressed as Gladiators (some with leopard-print cape, which you don't remember Russell Crowe ever wearing), and politely refuse all offers of "English tours through Colosseum, would you like to join our group?". Walk around the whole circumference of the "Flavian Amphitheatre", and congratulate yourself on knowing the original name of the structure. Take a photo in front of Constantine's Arch, stare up at the ruins of Palatine Hill, then make your way slowly but surely through to the Roman Forum.
Take your time wandering through this free open-air museum, with its dozens of columns, capitals, temples, fountains and drains. Imagine yourself in times past, strolling authoritatively down the Imperial Road in a purple toga, talking about that awful Caesar and how he double-crossed Xena, the Warrior Princess (remember, history is often better embellished).
Leave the forum and walk around the block to the Piazza Venezia and the imposing Monument to Victor Emmanuelle, first king of united Italy. Marvel at the 12m high and 10m wide bronze figure of old Vic on his horse, and at the sculpted figures of women underneath it, each representing an Italian city. Take your chances with the traffic and begin a stroll along the Via Del Corso, one of the city's most important streets - not least because it's stuffed with exclusive shops. Pretend you're Katie Holmes or Victoria Beckham and you're here to spend a lot of money. Better yet, don't.
After reaching the Piazza Popolo at the end of the Corso, track back through the side streets and chance upon the Spanish Steps. Feel slightly underwhelmed at the sight of some dirty white steps chockers full of hawkers and American college kids. By now it's late afternoon, a good time to wander past the famous Trevi Fountain. It may be a Monday afternoon in winter, but you will still have to fight your way down to the edge of the Rococo masterpiece to throw in the ubiquitous 1 cent coin, in order to ensure your return one day (hell, it worked last time).
Stroll through more side streets back to Piazza Barberini, picking yourself up a 4 euro wallet along the way. Take the crowded metro back home, enjoying the sensation of a strange man pressing up against your leg for three whole stops. Buy supplies at a local supermarket and cook yourself a big meal with carrots, broccoli and cauliflower, three vegetables you haven't had since October.
TUESDAY.
Get up slightly earlier, and make your way to the nearby Ostiense Station. Lose a 2 euro coin by sticking it in a broken ticket machine. Console yourself with a packet of Fonzies, the slighty-less-cheesy Italian version of Twisties. Eventually buy a ticket and take an overland train two stops to San Pietro, Vatican City. Follow the giant dome in front of you until you hit St Peter's Square. Go through the security checks and wind your way into the Basilica itself. Wonder as always at the massive interior, sumptous decoration and imposing dome. Venture underneath the floor to the Tombs of the Popes, now with John Paul II. Feel impressed by the fact he went for a simple white marble slab, rather than a lavish life-like scuplted image on top of a tomb decorated with Latin text praising his pontificate.
Leave the basilica, then the square, and walk about half a kilometre due east until you hit the Castel Sant'Angelo, which you haven't been inside before. Flash your MEAA Journalist card to gain free entrance, and marvel at a place that actually welcomes journalists! Regress back to your childhood as you twist and turn through the castle's many secret passageways and staircases, marvel at its impressive frescoes and take it its impressive views across all Rome from its many turrets and battlements.
Take a bus through the town to Termini Station, and walk a few blocks to the Church of Santa Maria Della Vittoria, which, you're kind of ashamed to admit, you only really learned about while reading Dan Brown's "Angels and Demons". Go inside and stare up at Bernini's sculpture, "The Ecstasy of St Teresa". Try not to get too embarrassed by the fact the St Teresa is obviously experiencing some sort of heavenly connection.
Wander back to the Metro station and jump on Line B once more, this time getting out at Circo Massimo. Walk along and down into the grassy remains of what was once ancient Rome's sporting arena. Past the Circus, and further on into a heavy traffic area, come across the iconic Bocca Della Verita, the "Mouth of Truth". The courtyard of the church in which the old sewer cover stands may be locked, but you can still take a photo through the gate.
Head back to the metro and head home for a final night in, full of vegetables and supermarket gelati. Congratulate yourself on spending less than 50 euros in two days in one of the most expensive of European cities. Figure that while Rome may be the Eternal City, you didn't do too badly with your two days' worth.
Start by enjoying a sleep-in. Hell, you've been travelling for over four months now, why force yourself to be up and out of your hotel by 8am? Nothing's open before 9 or 10am anyway.
When you eventually head out, wander down past your local street stalls and pick up a fabulous purple handbag with all the pockets you like for 15 euros, and enjoy a piece of 2 euro pizza. Catch the Metro blue line to Colosseo, a great starting place for any walk around Old Rome. Bypass the strange men dressed as Gladiators (some with leopard-print cape, which you don't remember Russell Crowe ever wearing), and politely refuse all offers of "English tours through Colosseum, would you like to join our group?". Walk around the whole circumference of the "Flavian Amphitheatre", and congratulate yourself on knowing the original name of the structure. Take a photo in front of Constantine's Arch, stare up at the ruins of Palatine Hill, then make your way slowly but surely through to the Roman Forum.
Take your time wandering through this free open-air museum, with its dozens of columns, capitals, temples, fountains and drains. Imagine yourself in times past, strolling authoritatively down the Imperial Road in a purple toga, talking about that awful Caesar and how he double-crossed Xena, the Warrior Princess (remember, history is often better embellished).
Leave the forum and walk around the block to the Piazza Venezia and the imposing Monument to Victor Emmanuelle, first king of united Italy. Marvel at the 12m high and 10m wide bronze figure of old Vic on his horse, and at the sculpted figures of women underneath it, each representing an Italian city. Take your chances with the traffic and begin a stroll along the Via Del Corso, one of the city's most important streets - not least because it's stuffed with exclusive shops. Pretend you're Katie Holmes or Victoria Beckham and you're here to spend a lot of money. Better yet, don't.
After reaching the Piazza Popolo at the end of the Corso, track back through the side streets and chance upon the Spanish Steps. Feel slightly underwhelmed at the sight of some dirty white steps chockers full of hawkers and American college kids. By now it's late afternoon, a good time to wander past the famous Trevi Fountain. It may be a Monday afternoon in winter, but you will still have to fight your way down to the edge of the Rococo masterpiece to throw in the ubiquitous 1 cent coin, in order to ensure your return one day (hell, it worked last time).
Stroll through more side streets back to Piazza Barberini, picking yourself up a 4 euro wallet along the way. Take the crowded metro back home, enjoying the sensation of a strange man pressing up against your leg for three whole stops. Buy supplies at a local supermarket and cook yourself a big meal with carrots, broccoli and cauliflower, three vegetables you haven't had since October.
TUESDAY.
Get up slightly earlier, and make your way to the nearby Ostiense Station. Lose a 2 euro coin by sticking it in a broken ticket machine. Console yourself with a packet of Fonzies, the slighty-less-cheesy Italian version of Twisties. Eventually buy a ticket and take an overland train two stops to San Pietro, Vatican City. Follow the giant dome in front of you until you hit St Peter's Square. Go through the security checks and wind your way into the Basilica itself. Wonder as always at the massive interior, sumptous decoration and imposing dome. Venture underneath the floor to the Tombs of the Popes, now with John Paul II. Feel impressed by the fact he went for a simple white marble slab, rather than a lavish life-like scuplted image on top of a tomb decorated with Latin text praising his pontificate.
Leave the basilica, then the square, and walk about half a kilometre due east until you hit the Castel Sant'Angelo, which you haven't been inside before. Flash your MEAA Journalist card to gain free entrance, and marvel at a place that actually welcomes journalists! Regress back to your childhood as you twist and turn through the castle's many secret passageways and staircases, marvel at its impressive frescoes and take it its impressive views across all Rome from its many turrets and battlements.
Take a bus through the town to Termini Station, and walk a few blocks to the Church of Santa Maria Della Vittoria, which, you're kind of ashamed to admit, you only really learned about while reading Dan Brown's "Angels and Demons". Go inside and stare up at Bernini's sculpture, "The Ecstasy of St Teresa". Try not to get too embarrassed by the fact the St Teresa is obviously experiencing some sort of heavenly connection.
Wander back to the Metro station and jump on Line B once more, this time getting out at Circo Massimo. Walk along and down into the grassy remains of what was once ancient Rome's sporting arena. Past the Circus, and further on into a heavy traffic area, come across the iconic Bocca Della Verita, the "Mouth of Truth". The courtyard of the church in which the old sewer cover stands may be locked, but you can still take a photo through the gate.
Head back to the metro and head home for a final night in, full of vegetables and supermarket gelati. Congratulate yourself on spending less than 50 euros in two days in one of the most expensive of European cities. Figure that while Rome may be the Eternal City, you didn't do too badly with your two days' worth.
Dec 18, 2006
It was in the stars...
My horoscope for yesterday, December 17...
"You will begin your morning cold and confused as you wait at Krakow's city bus station for a 6:30am Wizz Air transfer shuttle bus that never arrives. However, you will be rescued from forking out $150 for a cab fare when it turns out the transfer service changed your booking to a 7:30am bus without telling you. Your transfer and subsequent flight to Rome will go smoothly, until you misinterpret your own handwriting and get lost trying to find your hotel. Eventually, however, Italian Vodafone will work, and a nice Italian man named Renato will come to your rescue in a green Jaguar, and show you around your lovely apartment - complete with dual internet/TV connection."
Astonishing how accurate these things can be sometimes, isn't it?
"You will begin your morning cold and confused as you wait at Krakow's city bus station for a 6:30am Wizz Air transfer shuttle bus that never arrives. However, you will be rescued from forking out $150 for a cab fare when it turns out the transfer service changed your booking to a 7:30am bus without telling you. Your transfer and subsequent flight to Rome will go smoothly, until you misinterpret your own handwriting and get lost trying to find your hotel. Eventually, however, Italian Vodafone will work, and a nice Italian man named Renato will come to your rescue in a green Jaguar, and show you around your lovely apartment - complete with dual internet/TV connection."
Astonishing how accurate these things can be sometimes, isn't it?
Dec 17, 2006
A Cracking Good Time in Krakow
| We leave Krakow early tomorrow morning for the (hopefully) warmer climes of Rome, so it's a good time to get up-to-date on our Polish activities. I've posted my thoughts on our vsombre visit to Auschwitz-Birkenau below; leaving this blog free to be (again, hopefully) fun and full of jokes. Friday saw us take in the famous "Wieliczka Salt Mine" - did you know, it was one of the very first group of sites to be named in UNESCO's World Heritage List? There you go! The Salt Mine is just that - a 900-year-old salt mine. Salt was extraordinarily important in medieval life - used as a means of food preservation, it was almost as expensive as silver. Much of Krakow's wealth came from the massive salt deposit that was found under the little town of Wieliczka (pronounced "vee-lich-ka"). What makes this mine stand out are the wonderful carvings and statues that litter the dozens of chambers and passageways. Miners used to sculpt them in their spare time! There are even chapels - including the famous St Kinga's chapel, named after the queen who according to legend brought the salt deposit to Poland as her wedding gift. Some of the statues have worn due to humidity, but modern ventilation systems mean most are perfectly preserved. The mine runs over 9 levels, with over 3 kilometres of passages running to a depth of over 300 metres (visitors only go down as far as 135m). There are also underground lakes, rooms with ceilings up to 30m high, incredible staircases, and You can do a virtual tour here if you're interested, but unfortunately it won't be as funny as our real-life one - with his fantastic accent, bad jokes and big moustache our guide was a dead-ringer for Borat! Note: Yes, I did actually buy some salt as a souvenir. It's scented rose, and smells yummy. Can't wait to give myself a salt scrub back at home. We've spent today cruising around the town - we headed back up to Wawel Castle to see inside its cathedral, where all the Polish kings are buried; we wandered past the Dragon's Lair under the castle hill (legend has it a mythical dragon lived there and feasted on lovely maidens until a local man tricked him into eating a fake lamb filled with sulphur); and enjoyed a look at one of the churches in the main square, home to a massive 10m high carved wooden altar. Snazzy. I can't finish writing about Krakow without talking about the cold. Avoiding it is tricky; one obviously has to venture outside at some point to make one's trip worthwhile. I wear everything I own, and yet still feel cold. The worst is when my feet start to freeze from the toes down - they literally feel like they are encased in ice. My fingers get cold but I can breathe on them; my face gets cold and I pull my beanie down and pull my scarf up but all I get is a mouthful of wool. This isn't even a cold winter for Krakovians, but I can literally SEE the cold, especially at night - a visible mist wafting through the streets, getting into the few gaps in my winter get-up I haven't managed to plug. I know I sound like a big girl and I freely admit I am. But this is a new experience for me - the cold and learning to live with it. Sometimes I don't know how people survive these winters - I guess they do just stay inside. I'd better run now; I've been monopolising the free internet for ages now. Must pack, and shower, and get ready for the 2-hour bus trip to Katowice Airport! I would heartily recommend Krakow as a destination - only don't be fooled by people who tell you it's cheap. Food is reasonable, but shopping is just as expensive here as it has been in Europe - in some stores even more so. Some Poles still earn less than $500 a month, so I don't know how they manage. It's certainly cheaper than Western Europe, but nowhere near the value of Estonia or Latvia! |
Shadows of Auschwitz-Birkenau
| Thursday saw us head out early by local bus to the town of Oswiecim, better known as the site of the Auschwitz-Birkenau concentration camp. Apparently the place throngs with tourists and pilgrims in the summer months, so despite the cold day (warm by Polish standards, mind), I was happy to be there in winter, with far fewer crowds, and more time to linger at the exhibits, to truly take in the scale of what was the centre of the Nazis' "Final Solution". There are many more places on the internet and in reference books where you can find details of Auschwitz-Birkenau and the Holocaust in general, but I'd like to note down some things I personally found informative/startling/moving.
|
Dec 15, 2006
We interrupt this adventure...
...to bring you news that the Cybermen have attacked the Girl Clumsy blog, and it has now been officially "upgraded".
That's right, Blogger is updating its software, and I would have had to switch sooner or later.
So far the only differences I can see are in the way I can layout the blog, which won't really affect you, my dear readers. However, it looks like some Blogger users (possibly those who haven't switched yet, I'm not sure) are coming up as "anonymous" on the comments page even if they've logged in. So if anyone is planning to comment in future, please sign off with your name or nickname, as otherwise I won't know who you are!
The transfer also appears to have lost my nifty Flickr photo badge, which I am yet to recover. So I have replaced it with a shot of me in Morocco for the time being. In fact, all of our photos from Morocco are now online at my photo page. Here's another taste:
Reporting from the (rather flooded) road!
This is a photo Greg took of me crossing live to Ian Maurice's 4BC Nights program back in November. We were stranded here (somewhere out back of Ourzeurzate) for a good half-an-hour due to the washed-out bridge in the background!
Will report in again soon on more Krakow activities - hoorah for free internet at our hostel!
That's right, Blogger is updating its software, and I would have had to switch sooner or later.
So far the only differences I can see are in the way I can layout the blog, which won't really affect you, my dear readers. However, it looks like some Blogger users (possibly those who haven't switched yet, I'm not sure) are coming up as "anonymous" on the comments page even if they've logged in. So if anyone is planning to comment in future, please sign off with your name or nickname, as otherwise I won't know who you are!
The transfer also appears to have lost my nifty Flickr photo badge, which I am yet to recover. So I have replaced it with a shot of me in Morocco for the time being. In fact, all of our photos from Morocco are now online at my photo page. Here's another taste:
Reporting from the (rather flooded) road!
This is a photo Greg took of me crossing live to Ian Maurice's 4BC Nights program back in November. We were stranded here (somewhere out back of Ourzeurzate) for a good half-an-hour due to the washed-out bridge in the background!
Will report in again soon on more Krakow activities - hoorah for free internet at our hostel!
Dec 14, 2006
Can you tell me how to get...how to get to Bochenska Street?
So.
Krakow. Is. Cold.
When I went outside today, I kinda looked like this guy:
Krakow. Is. Cold.
When I went outside today, I kinda looked like this guy:
Yup, with the fetching sash and everything. And you know, stumbling around one of Europe's cultural capitals like some sort of unbalanced overweight inflatable advertising gimmick wouldn't be so bad if I was actually warm. My fleece and waterproof jacket do ward off the rain and wind, but what I really need are battery powered clothes that send a current of warmth around my body, heating my every pore. Kind of like a wetsuit, only without that embarrassing "pee yourself to warm up" option (you obviously don't want to blow the electrics).
It's not that I didn't know it would be cold here - of course I knew. But the knowledge of a Polish winter can't really prepare for the experience of a Polish winter. And actually, it's the warmest December they've had here for some years. Apparently they should have 10 inches of snow and temperatures well below zero by now. Instead it's practically balmy - hovering between 2 and 5 degrees. Lucky I packed my swimsuit, eh?
Krakow is a lovely city though despite the cold. Officially founded in 1257 (but settled long before that), Krakow is awash with history. Churches pop out at you from every corner; overlooking the city is the marvellous Wawel Castle; and the market square in the Old Town is the biggest in Europe. In fact, we were welcomed to the square today by a mock riot, commemorating the 25th anniversary of the introduction of martial law in Poland. How's that for timing? There was a tank and fake military police and protestors with Solidarity posters and everything.
My grandfather Maceij was Polish - an officer in the Polish Navy during WW2. My grandmother told me once that he refused to return to Poland after the war due to the Communist rule. Today I found out why - he probably would have been arrested, and possibly imprisoned or worse. In 1940, after Poland was divided under the Molotov-Ribbentrop Pact, the Russians rounded up several thousand of Poland's intelligentsia and had them shot near a town called Katyn. There are estimates of up to 10, 000 deaths in that time - possibly more. They wanted to make sure no Polish politicans, military leaders or university professors would be able to lead the people in a revolt. Several thousand managed to flee - my grandfather no doubt by sea with the navy. Our tour guide Monica told us today that after the war, many officers who returned were locked up - ample reason for my grandfather to avoid returning home. The mass graves near Katyn were discovered later during the war, but the Soviets blamed the Nazis for the killings, and it was only in 1990 that Gorbachev admitted that Russians had been responsible. My grandfather died in 1989, so he never got to hear the official truth - though no doubt he knew during his lifetime who had been behind such an atrocity. Moments like that - when you realise just how connected your family's history is to world history - are arresting.
Not that the Polish didn't suffer enough under the Nazis, mind. Tomorrow we head out to Auschwitz-Birkenau, to stand right in the middle of the Third Reich's biggest concentration and extermination camp.
And finally...one place I will be visiting over the next few days is BOCHENSKA Street! That's right, there is an honest-to-goodness street here in Krakow called Bochenska Street. I found it on the wall map located in our hostel's reception. Couldn't believe it. The only other Bochenski Street I know is the one named after my Grandad in Port Vila! ;) For those of you confused, Bochenska is the feminine version of Bochenski. I don't use it as Australians don't really get the custom. But it's still the same name, and dammit, I'm going to get a photo of me on my own street!
Until next time...
Dec 12, 2006
Can't talk....busy....
Hey all,
All those promises to update you on various London shenanigans...and I never did. Shocking behaviour, really, useless.
Anyway, the reason is for the past four days Greg and I have been holed up in impro heaven - ie, staying with our good friends Deborah and Tom - founders and geniuses behind The Spontaneity Shop - in Camden Town. These are two of the best people I've ever met - they are always so funny, so friendly, so positive and so inspiring. I wish I could pop over to London more frequently just to see them and their fab impro shows!
More details when I've got time - rushing to pack in order to get out to Stansted and catch a flight to Krakow. But it's been lovely here in London despite the cold - trading stories with people who live and work here in the creative industries makes me feel all warm and cuddly inside.
Oh yeah, and final fun fact. Deb and Tom are currently letting a good actor friend stay with them while his flat is being renovated. His name is Tobias Menzies, and he was in 'Casino Royale' as M's secretary!!! Eeee! I met him last night (he'd been away filming all weekend),but I was too nervous to be all geeky and ask about the film. However Deborah had told me that he'd spent much of his time off while filming in Prague going out to concerts with Dame Judi Dench!
Anyway, must love and leave London - and we won't be coming back here again this trip! But London is truly one of my favourite places despite the hideous expense, and I'm bound to be back sooner or later!
All those promises to update you on various London shenanigans...and I never did. Shocking behaviour, really, useless.
Anyway, the reason is for the past four days Greg and I have been holed up in impro heaven - ie, staying with our good friends Deborah and Tom - founders and geniuses behind The Spontaneity Shop - in Camden Town. These are two of the best people I've ever met - they are always so funny, so friendly, so positive and so inspiring. I wish I could pop over to London more frequently just to see them and their fab impro shows!
More details when I've got time - rushing to pack in order to get out to Stansted and catch a flight to Krakow. But it's been lovely here in London despite the cold - trading stories with people who live and work here in the creative industries makes me feel all warm and cuddly inside.
Oh yeah, and final fun fact. Deb and Tom are currently letting a good actor friend stay with them while his flat is being renovated. His name is Tobias Menzies, and he was in 'Casino Royale' as M's secretary!!! Eeee! I met him last night (he'd been away filming all weekend),but I was too nervous to be all geeky and ask about the film. However Deborah had told me that he'd spent much of his time off while filming in Prague going out to concerts with Dame Judi Dench!
Anyway, must love and leave London - and we won't be coming back here again this trip! But London is truly one of my favourite places despite the hideous expense, and I'm bound to be back sooner or later!
Dec 9, 2006
A week is a long time when travelling
Gosh. It's been a week since I last posted and how much has happened!
I'm currently in London, the expense of which is causing great swathes of pain to wrack my body, most particularly the part where I keep the cash. Greg and I try our very best to keep our costs minimal, but the simple fact is you can't avoid the expense. And we want to do things while we're here - just glad it's only 6 days!
Before I go on, let me give a brief recap of our time in Spain.
CADIZ: We dove through this gorgeous town on our way through to Sevilla. I would have liked to spend more time there - not least because it was so sunny and warm! And being on the coast (the Battle of Trafalgar was found just a few kilometres out to sea), it gave us our last glimpse of the Atlantic for a while. We wandered around taking a look at some historical buildings, including the 'Casa de Obispo', a former bishop's residence which had remains dating back to the Moorish and Roman times on display underneath!
SEVILLA: A gorgeous city, if not just a bit stressful to drive into! We eventually found a lovely pension in the old town area - although we had to pay for a night's parking in a lot because cars couldn't get down many of the streets, let alone park in them! We took the opportunity of seeing a local flamenco show - wow. I want to take up flamenco when I get home - it's such a passionately physical form of dance, with every emotion from frustration to elation there to see on the dancers' faces. We only saw a small show, with a guitarist, vocalist and a male and female dancer, but it gave us a great picture of the traditional music and dance of the region. We spent part of the next day (Thursday) wandering around the town, looking at its colossal cathedral, topped by the famous 'La Giralda' bell tower, which was once a minaret for a mosque! The influence of the Arab occupation is still very visible in Andalucia. Sevilla was also where we treated ourselves to 'Churros con chocolate' - strips of fried donut that you dip into thick hot chocolate. Scrumptious, but not something I'd have every day - even with my reknowned chocolate addiction!
CORDOBA: A very pleasant and historic city, Cordoba's big highlight was the ancient Roman Bridge - the only crossing across the river until the 1950s! It's currently being renovated - along with a Moorish tower at one end and Roman gate at the other - as part of a bid by Cordoba to become Europe's culture capital in 2016. They're preparing well in advance! We stayed in a sweet little hostal in Cordoba, the owner of which allowed us to park out front on the street - hurrah!
ANTEQUERA: A brief lunch stop on the way to Granada became a search for neolithic burial mounds! Antequera has three great megalithic monuments - similar to Maes Howe in the Orkneys, or Belas Knapp in England, or anyone of the dozens of burial sites that attract people like Greg and I!!! The 34 metre-long El Romeral monument was in exceptional condition, and the Menga was the best, with a huge internal chamber and mysterious 20m shaft!
GRANADA: Nervous at first about trying to get into such a spread-out city, we relaxed when we discovered how well the Alhambra was signposted (hooray for European highways!). We found cheap digs right near the palace, and had a fun night getting lost while walking down to the city. Saturday was spent taking in the Alhambra itself - 140 000 acres of buildings and gardens, and the remnants of a once grand Moorish ruling dynasty. The Moors were thrown out in 1492 by Ferdinand and Isabella, the same Catholic monarchs who later that year would OK some bloke called Christobal Colon to sail off to the 'New World'. The Arab architecture of the Nazrid Palace was by far the best in the place, although the unfinished palace of Charles V and the military HQ the 'Alkazba' were interesting too.
TOLEDO: A World Heritage city, Toleda is a sight to behold on the drive in - a true hilltop citadel bordered on three sides by a river, with fantastic medieval architecture. However we got there on a Sunday, and most things were closed. I was a little disappointed with the vibe of the town - apart from look at some shops selling famous Toledo steel in the forms of swords and kitchen knives - there wasn't much else to do. However we did manage to score a room for 20 euros (but there was no hot water!).
MADRID: We left Toledo early Monday morning to get to the capital's airport in order to drop off 'Shakira', our rental car (so named because her rear end shook a lot, much like the Latin songstress). After an adventurous drive, we found the Avis lot, then took the efficient and cheap tube direct to the Puerto del Sol, the 'heart' of Madrid. We didn't have anywhere booked, but found a sweet room for 30 euros per night just off the square within about 20 minutes. Very nice indeed.
I have to say I loved Madrid - even though we only saw a small part (spending most of Tuesday morning doing some much-needed washing!). It's a party town, with friendly people and a fabulous lifestyle (getting up late and staying out late!). It helped that we were staying right in the middle of the shopping district. Even though I couldn't afford anything (for money and space reasons) I enjoyed window shopping, and looking at the massive Christmas lights in the streets.
We ate simply in Madrid to save money - hooray for yummy kebabs - and were helped by a public holiday on the Wednesday, which meant we got in to see Picasso's 'Guernica' for free! A wonderful painting, and huge - about 8m by 4m.
A final note: 'CASINO ROYALE' IS ONE OF THE BEST GOD-DAMNED JAMES BOND MOVIES OF ALL TIME! We saw it in an English speaking cinema our first night in Madrid - we even went out with a couple of fellow fans we met after the screening! Daniel Craig was suberb. I intend to write more about it once I see it again!
More on London, the slide at the Tate Modern, 'Spamalot' and 'Avenue Q' soon....
I'm currently in London, the expense of which is causing great swathes of pain to wrack my body, most particularly the part where I keep the cash. Greg and I try our very best to keep our costs minimal, but the simple fact is you can't avoid the expense. And we want to do things while we're here - just glad it's only 6 days!
Before I go on, let me give a brief recap of our time in Spain.
CADIZ: We dove through this gorgeous town on our way through to Sevilla. I would have liked to spend more time there - not least because it was so sunny and warm! And being on the coast (the Battle of Trafalgar was found just a few kilometres out to sea), it gave us our last glimpse of the Atlantic for a while. We wandered around taking a look at some historical buildings, including the 'Casa de Obispo', a former bishop's residence which had remains dating back to the Moorish and Roman times on display underneath!
SEVILLA: A gorgeous city, if not just a bit stressful to drive into! We eventually found a lovely pension in the old town area - although we had to pay for a night's parking in a lot because cars couldn't get down many of the streets, let alone park in them! We took the opportunity of seeing a local flamenco show - wow. I want to take up flamenco when I get home - it's such a passionately physical form of dance, with every emotion from frustration to elation there to see on the dancers' faces. We only saw a small show, with a guitarist, vocalist and a male and female dancer, but it gave us a great picture of the traditional music and dance of the region. We spent part of the next day (Thursday) wandering around the town, looking at its colossal cathedral, topped by the famous 'La Giralda' bell tower, which was once a minaret for a mosque! The influence of the Arab occupation is still very visible in Andalucia. Sevilla was also where we treated ourselves to 'Churros con chocolate' - strips of fried donut that you dip into thick hot chocolate. Scrumptious, but not something I'd have every day - even with my reknowned chocolate addiction!
CORDOBA: A very pleasant and historic city, Cordoba's big highlight was the ancient Roman Bridge - the only crossing across the river until the 1950s! It's currently being renovated - along with a Moorish tower at one end and Roman gate at the other - as part of a bid by Cordoba to become Europe's culture capital in 2016. They're preparing well in advance! We stayed in a sweet little hostal in Cordoba, the owner of which allowed us to park out front on the street - hurrah!
ANTEQUERA: A brief lunch stop on the way to Granada became a search for neolithic burial mounds! Antequera has three great megalithic monuments - similar to Maes Howe in the Orkneys, or Belas Knapp in England, or anyone of the dozens of burial sites that attract people like Greg and I!!! The 34 metre-long El Romeral monument was in exceptional condition, and the Menga was the best, with a huge internal chamber and mysterious 20m shaft!
GRANADA: Nervous at first about trying to get into such a spread-out city, we relaxed when we discovered how well the Alhambra was signposted (hooray for European highways!). We found cheap digs right near the palace, and had a fun night getting lost while walking down to the city. Saturday was spent taking in the Alhambra itself - 140 000 acres of buildings and gardens, and the remnants of a once grand Moorish ruling dynasty. The Moors were thrown out in 1492 by Ferdinand and Isabella, the same Catholic monarchs who later that year would OK some bloke called Christobal Colon to sail off to the 'New World'. The Arab architecture of the Nazrid Palace was by far the best in the place, although the unfinished palace of Charles V and the military HQ the 'Alkazba' were interesting too.
TOLEDO: A World Heritage city, Toleda is a sight to behold on the drive in - a true hilltop citadel bordered on three sides by a river, with fantastic medieval architecture. However we got there on a Sunday, and most things were closed. I was a little disappointed with the vibe of the town - apart from look at some shops selling famous Toledo steel in the forms of swords and kitchen knives - there wasn't much else to do. However we did manage to score a room for 20 euros (but there was no hot water!).
MADRID: We left Toledo early Monday morning to get to the capital's airport in order to drop off 'Shakira', our rental car (so named because her rear end shook a lot, much like the Latin songstress). After an adventurous drive, we found the Avis lot, then took the efficient and cheap tube direct to the Puerto del Sol, the 'heart' of Madrid. We didn't have anywhere booked, but found a sweet room for 30 euros per night just off the square within about 20 minutes. Very nice indeed.
I have to say I loved Madrid - even though we only saw a small part (spending most of Tuesday morning doing some much-needed washing!). It's a party town, with friendly people and a fabulous lifestyle (getting up late and staying out late!). It helped that we were staying right in the middle of the shopping district. Even though I couldn't afford anything (for money and space reasons) I enjoyed window shopping, and looking at the massive Christmas lights in the streets.
We ate simply in Madrid to save money - hooray for yummy kebabs - and were helped by a public holiday on the Wednesday, which meant we got in to see Picasso's 'Guernica' for free! A wonderful painting, and huge - about 8m by 4m.
A final note: 'CASINO ROYALE' IS ONE OF THE BEST GOD-DAMNED JAMES BOND MOVIES OF ALL TIME! We saw it in an English speaking cinema our first night in Madrid - we even went out with a couple of fellow fans we met after the screening! Daniel Craig was suberb. I intend to write more about it once I see it again!
More on London, the slide at the Tate Modern, 'Spamalot' and 'Avenue Q' soon....
Dec 2, 2006
Cutting Loose in Andalucia
¡Buenos dias, amigos!
¿You know what I love about Spanish?
¡The upside down question marks & exclamation marks!
I only wish I knew a bit more Spanish than that. ;) Thanks to the lovely Susana, the multi-lingual Canadian from our Moroccan tour, I know a few expressions, such as:
¿Cuante valle habitacion para dos por favor?
How much for a room for two please?
and...
¿Donde esta lavabo?
Where is the toilet?
...but apart from that, I´ve been getting a lot of blank stares. Worst is when I ask how much a room is, and they give me the numbers in speedy Spanish (gosh, but they speak quickly, the Spainards. I thought I had a motor mouth!). I can count to about ten, and that´s it. So I then have to reply with "Errr...no ablo Espanol", and see if they take pity on me.
Anyhoos, we´ve seen some lovely parts of the country since arriving in the charming surfers´ paradise of Tarifa on Monday. We spent Tuesday getting to the port city of Algeciras, then across to the weird and wonderful place that is Her Majesty´s Dominion of Gibraltar, home of the famous rock. Honestly, it´s like some sort of multi-lingual theme park. You still have to show your passport to cross into the settlement, and exchanging some euros for pounds isn´t a bad idea either.
Some wacky facts about Gibraltar (as I really knew nothing about the place when I arrive):
--It has been a British dominion since 1704. Before that it was Spanish-controlled, before that Arabic, before that Visigothic (that´s going back). But the people are now firmly British in their outlook (they just conveniently like the sexy sunny Iberian weather), and don´t want to be returned to Spain. Ever.
--The famous apes that live on top of the rock are Barbary Macaques, originally from the Atlas Mountains in Morocco. Legend has it that if the apes ever leave Gibraltar, so will the British. When Winston Churchill visited in 1940, he had the population topped up, so this could never happen!
--The apes live in a semi-wild state, and you´re forbidden from touching or feeding them. It´s hard to avoid them when you´re up the top in their habitat - they like to clamber around the "Top of the Rock" restaurant and viewing platform and pose for photos. One of them even grabbed at my leg as I walked past. "Eeek!" I screeched. I was more worried about being fine for inciting ape assault or something as opposed to my own safety!
--There are 53km of tunnels in the rock itself. Some go back to the sieges of the late 1700s, when the Spanish tried to get the British out. Others were dug in during the early 40s, when Gibraltar seemed like all that stood between Hitler and all of North Africa. Operation Torch was launched from the rock, and Eisenhower himself lived there for about a year. Over 17 000 troops lived in the rock - many going without sunlight for six months - during the war.
BUGGER! My net time has run out. Briefly, we grabbed our hire car in Algeciras, and have since been to Cadiz, Sevilla, Cordoba and Antequera (for neolithic monuments!!!). We are now in Granada. I will do another update tomorrow once we have visited the fabulous Alhambra Palace!
¿You know what I love about Spanish?
¡The upside down question marks & exclamation marks!
I only wish I knew a bit more Spanish than that. ;) Thanks to the lovely Susana, the multi-lingual Canadian from our Moroccan tour, I know a few expressions, such as:
¿Cuante valle habitacion para dos por favor?
How much for a room for two please?
and...
¿Donde esta lavabo?
Where is the toilet?
...but apart from that, I´ve been getting a lot of blank stares. Worst is when I ask how much a room is, and they give me the numbers in speedy Spanish (gosh, but they speak quickly, the Spainards. I thought I had a motor mouth!). I can count to about ten, and that´s it. So I then have to reply with "Errr...no ablo Espanol", and see if they take pity on me.
Anyhoos, we´ve seen some lovely parts of the country since arriving in the charming surfers´ paradise of Tarifa on Monday. We spent Tuesday getting to the port city of Algeciras, then across to the weird and wonderful place that is Her Majesty´s Dominion of Gibraltar, home of the famous rock. Honestly, it´s like some sort of multi-lingual theme park. You still have to show your passport to cross into the settlement, and exchanging some euros for pounds isn´t a bad idea either.
Some wacky facts about Gibraltar (as I really knew nothing about the place when I arrive):
--It has been a British dominion since 1704. Before that it was Spanish-controlled, before that Arabic, before that Visigothic (that´s going back). But the people are now firmly British in their outlook (they just conveniently like the sexy sunny Iberian weather), and don´t want to be returned to Spain. Ever.
--The famous apes that live on top of the rock are Barbary Macaques, originally from the Atlas Mountains in Morocco. Legend has it that if the apes ever leave Gibraltar, so will the British. When Winston Churchill visited in 1940, he had the population topped up, so this could never happen!
--The apes live in a semi-wild state, and you´re forbidden from touching or feeding them. It´s hard to avoid them when you´re up the top in their habitat - they like to clamber around the "Top of the Rock" restaurant and viewing platform and pose for photos. One of them even grabbed at my leg as I walked past. "Eeek!" I screeched. I was more worried about being fine for inciting ape assault or something as opposed to my own safety!
--There are 53km of tunnels in the rock itself. Some go back to the sieges of the late 1700s, when the Spanish tried to get the British out. Others were dug in during the early 40s, when Gibraltar seemed like all that stood between Hitler and all of North Africa. Operation Torch was launched from the rock, and Eisenhower himself lived there for about a year. Over 17 000 troops lived in the rock - many going without sunlight for six months - during the war.
BUGGER! My net time has run out. Briefly, we grabbed our hire car in Algeciras, and have since been to Cadiz, Sevilla, Cordoba and Antequera (for neolithic monuments!!!). We are now in Granada. I will do another update tomorrow once we have visited the fabulous Alhambra Palace!
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